[07] Suzume no Oyado (Otsu City) / Stay at an Ancient Trail’s Hidden Sanctuary

Stay at an Ancient Trail’s Hidden Sanctuary

In the Deep Nature and History of Katsuragawa

Suzume no Oyado (Otsu City)

Keywords: nature / kid’s fun / history & tradition

Season: All year 

English Assistance: Fluent

Adjacent to Kyoto, Shiga Prefecture has long shared a profound cultural and historical connection with Japan’s former capital, which served as the nation’s cultural and political center for centuries. This proximity fostered a rich exchange of goods and traditions, creating a lasting bond.

Ancient routes along the western side of Lake Biwa historically connected Kyoto to the Sea of Japan. For centuries, these paths carried fresh seafood and coastal goods to the capital. In the shadowed valleys of Shiga’s western mountains, one of these routes endures, preserving traces of its intriguing past. Along this mountain path lie secluded “hidden villages” that evoke the timeless spirit of the region’s history.

Like many rural regions, this area feels the effects of an aging population, yet it has gently opened its doors to those in search of a slower, more contemplative pace. In one of these villages, a charming inn housed in a beautifully preserved traditional thatched-roof home invites guests to enjoy a stay within the mystical atmosphere of the surrounding tranquil mountains. Here, visitors can immerse themselves in the enduring legacy of Shiga’s timeless past, finding a retreat that feels worlds away from the pace of modern life.

The ancient trade routes connecting Kyoto, the former capital, to the northern seacoast are known as the Saba Kaido, or “Mackerel Highways.” The main route, Wakasa Kaido, was the fastest path and is now modernized as Route 367. Stretching from Kyoto’s Karasuma-Gojo area through Ohara, then passing through Otsu and Takashima in Shiga Prefecture, it spans about 80 kilometers before reaching Obama on Wakasa Bay. Today, this journey takes less than two hours by car, but in ancient times, traders would traverse the rugged mountain terrain carrying freshly caught and salted mackerel bound for Kyoto. This historic route played a key role in shaping Kyoto’s culinary culture.

Traveling from Kyoto today, the route takes you through mountain passes and along river valleys, leading past small, secluded villages nestled against the mountainsides. Upon crossing into Shiga Prefecture, you enter the Katsuragawa district of Otsu City. Near the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Enryakuji Temple on Mt. Hiei, Katsuragawa has long been connected to Japanese Buddhist culture. Tucked into the landscape along the Adogawa River, the limited farmland led to the emergence of forestry as a central trade, producing traditions intertwined with the environment, like the practice of floating logs down the river.

About an hour’s drive from Kyoto brings you to Hosokawa Village in Katsuragawa, where Suzume no Oyado (sparrows’ inn), a traditional thatched-roof vacation rental, sits quietly by the roadside. Accommodating a maximum of 15 guests, this 120-year-old relocated farmhouse preserves a deep sense of history and rural charm. True to the traditional farmhouse style, guests sleep on futons spread over tatami mats. The interior layout follows a classic square arrangement with four rooms separated by sliding fusuma doors, which can be opened for a spacious feel or closed for privacy.

After checking in, guests are free to unwind and explore, whether it may be relaxing to the sounds of the river and nature, taking a scenic walk, or reflecting on the deep local history. For families looking to enjoy nature together, nearby campsites provide an ideal setting. The closest, Ume no Ki Camping Ground, is a family-friendly spot with a gentle river where children can play safely. Further into the mountains lies Kutsuki Kogawa Mountain & River Park, where visitors can enjoy mountain stream fishing, enjoying their catch on-site barbecue style, or head back to the inn and cook over the traditional irori sunken hearth, for a truly rustic experience.

For meals, guests can enjoy cooking with local ingredients on the inn’s outdoor barbecue grill or use the indoor hearth, with all necessary utensils and barbecue equipment provided. Or as an equally delightful alternative, try visiting the excellent eateries nearby that serve regional specialties like the renowned saba-zushi (mackerel sushi). Long ago, salted mackerel was carried by traders over the mountains to Kyoto, where it arrived perfectly cured for sushi and became a cherished dish of festivals and special occasions. Today, this delicacy remains a beloved part of the Saba Kaido’s culinary heritage and is a perfect option to complete your immersive stay in Katsuragawa.

The Katsuragawa district, home to around 200 residents, lies deep in a mountain valley where heavy winter snowfall creates a quiet sense of seclusion in the small communities spread out around the area. Like many rural parts of Japan, Katsuragawa has faced challenges from acute depopulation, prompting local authorities to introduce various initiatives to counter this trend.

One such initiative is san-son ryugaku, or “mountain village study,” a unique type of educational program that invites children from urban areas to live in nature-rich rural villages for an extended stay, attend local elementary and middle schools, and immerse themselves in a traditional rural lifestyle. The program was introduced in Katsuragawa about 30 years ago, supported by a local community group dedicated to creating a welcoming environment for families by offering housing and meaningful outdoor experiences for children—all in an effort to revitalize the area. In addition, the community has worked to attract artists to the area, leading to the establishment of artist residencies and outdoor art installations that harmonize with the landscape, offering visitors a unique experience blending art and nature.

The local Suzume no Oyado inn might not have even existed here without such community initiatives. The inn’s owner, Makio Akitaya, formerly operated an Italian restaurant in Osaka, but after staying here with his family about 30 years ago while his child was part of the san-son ryugaku program, they ended up continuing their stay, after having bonded with the community. Captivated by the “cultural air of Kyoto” that lingers in this historically connected yet secluded area, he relocated two 120-year-old traditional farmhouses from northern Shiga with the help of local carpenters. They then began reconstruction, using thatched-roof material sourced from Aomori. After initially operating as a saba-zushi restaurant, he later reopened the property in 2014 as Suzume no Oyado, breathing new life into this historic building.

Today, most guests at Suzume no Oyado come from urban areas such as Nagoya and Osaka, drawn by the quiet elegance of traditional architecture and the peaceful village life. Although access to the area can be a challenge, a growing number of foreign visitors arrive by rental car, seeking the tranquil, isolated atmosphere. Akitaya-san hopes his guests find peace and relaxation in this unique setting, far removed from the rush of modern city life.

Please book directly through the provider

Name of Provider
Suzume no Oyado

Contact
https://suzumenooyado.net (JA)
[email protected]

Activities & Pricing
Rooms (accommodates up to 15 guests)

●Base rate from 50,000 yen, covering up to 4 guests (elementary school age and older).
●An additional 4,000 yen per person applies for groups of 5 or more.
●Preschool children: 1,000 yen per child.
●Four traditional Japanese-style rooms with futon mattresses on tatami flooring. Guests lay out the room’s futons themselves.
*Prices as of 2024. May be subject to change. Please check with the provider for latest info.

Other Notes
●No meal plan provided. Please bring your own food or purchase from nearby stores (10 mins by car to a convenience store and two supermarkets).
●Use the outdoor barbecue grill, indoor irori sunken hearth, or kitchen (not halal-compliant) for cooking. Please bring your own charcoal, available for purchase at the local convenience store.
●Smoking is prohibited indoors.

Activities Around the Facility (not affiliated with Suzume no Oyado)
●River play at Ume no Ki Camping Ground (LINK): 500 yen parking fee required.
●Mountain stream fishing & barbecue at Kutsuki Kogawa Mountain & River Park (LINK): fees vary by activity.

Reservation
●Reservation is available at Trip.com (LINK)
●Other inquiries can be made via email above (English OK)

Business Hours & Holidays
Throughout the year

Check-in / out
4:00 pm - 7:00 pm (please specify check-in time when booking) / 11:00 am

Location
7 Hosokawacho Katsurakawa, Otsu, Shiga 520-0471

Payment Method
Made through booking platform noted above.

Age Requirements
None

Support for Foreign Visitors
●Foreign Language Support: Yes (English) but not always available.
●Communication may be via translation devices or apps

Insurance
Not provided (individual coverage is recommended)

Wi-Fi Access
Yes

Disabled Accessibility
N/A

Access
●From Kyoto, access is easiest by rental car or taxi.
*Option 1: About 60 mins by car or taxi from Kyoto City.
*Option 2: From JR Kyoto Station, take the Kosei Line to JR Katata Station (30 mins), then 30 mins by taxi from Katata Station.

Ride Service
N/A